我沒有要戰，我只是單純提出問題：自然酒的規範都在化學添加的限制而不是物理的限制，但是激烈的人工干預似乎也是不怎麼自然。布根地一眾生物動力法名園皆是高密度低產量種植，但好像沒人質疑這一點？
Roberto Voerzio不惜一切代價避免Barolo產區的秋霧、寒冷的天氣和雨水， 所以比他的鄰居早一個半月收穫葡萄！提前收穫代表葡萄必須更快成熟，二十多年來Roberto Veorzio以葉子的顏色和活力判斷葡萄需要多少養分，並計算出在正常生長時間內需要一平方公尺的葉面積才能使兩公斤的水果充分成熟。Roberto Voerzio將作物重量減至每株0.5-1公斤，並將葉冠拉高到兩公尺以加倍葉面積，同時種植密度也加倍，樹間養份競爭加強，冬天剪枝至每株只剩五至六個芽（一般會留八至十二個）。 開花後七月中旬超過一半的葡萄已被疏果到剩下五至六串，收穫前修剪單一葡萄串下方以集中品質於上段漿果，也就是一串葡萄剪剩不到200g，比一盒藍莓多不到那去。更快地完全成熟並提前收穫，可避免對收成造成嚴重破壞的惡劣天氣。光合作用的提高也增加了葡萄中良性的酸度和單寧。
Roberto Voerzio在Barolo嚴厲的葡萄園實踐在當地也是個話題，但酒質的表現騙不了：今天的酒款有著同樣純粹的基調。我想他的酒無法取悅所有人，說他是現代派的代表好像也沒有什麼意義。但父子二代對La Morra的投入卻不能忽視。且不論眾酒評如何頌揚（也不是每個酒評家都一面倒，可以證明其討論的空間很大），至少對La Morra及葡萄有其獨特的理解。
所謂「自然酒」的規矩也都是人定的，其實也不怎麼自然，最自然的應是「猴兒酒」，樹上水果已經發酵的那種。但退一步回來，我還是相信釀酒葡萄是造物主的刻意為之，這種刻意是要有人的介入而完成的，好似樂高積木，一切已因緣俱足，但沒有人去了解與創造，那也不叫做完成。
感謝 #ENOTECA 邀請 #RobertoVeorzio
1. Roberto Voerzio Barbera d'Asti Superiore 2021 （本日最討喜）
Vivid crimson. Pure red juicy fruits upfront, with a violet scent in the background, delivering a decent presentation. Well-defined Barbera on the palate, complete and balanced, with bright acidity harmonizing with a broad texture. Smooth tannins extend the length. A fine example of high-end Barbera.
2. Roberto Voerzio Langhe Nebbiolo di San Francesco 2021
Pale garnet. Elegant tar melded with red berries, rose, and forest breath. Not a big wine on the nose, but well-completed. Mouth-filling tannins without being overwhelming. Big in structure, with a fruity impact on the front palate followed by creeping tannins. Quite a dry finish at the moment. Good purity but lacks complexity.
3. Roberto Voerzio Barolo DOCG del Comune di La Morra 2019
Pale garnet. Broad tar-smoke leads the nose, a hit of with red juicy fruits, rose, violet, earthy, wet leaves, all seamlessly integrated. Vivid acidity complements the high tannin, chewy with red fruits and blossom lingering throughout the length. A hint of petrol adds complexity. Still developing.
4. Roberto Voerzio Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata 2019（本日最有趣）
Pale garnet. Nutella scent, aged Cognac, with notes of yuzu peel. Andante Cantabile. Sweet spices meld with vivid blossoms, red fruits, and a gentle toastiness. High powdery tannins complete the texture, expressing significant aging potential. Still developing.
5. Roberto Voerzio Barolo Cerequio 2017（本日最喜歡）
Pale brick-garnet. Tar-smoke and savory vanilla, with hints of old Calvados, cigar ash, warm, meaty, dry thyme, and a lift of dried floral notes. Remarkable citrus acidity brightens the palate, while broad chalky tannins suggest longevity. Perfumed and persistent in length.
6. Roberto Voerzio Barolo Brunate 2017
Pale garnet. Gunpowder scent leads into tar-smoke, dried roses, chalky notes, and a fresh forest breath. Quite refined on the palate: soft in texture yet bold in structure. Juicy red fruits with citrus peels, Earl Grey tea, and a steely mouthfeel add depth. Long and lingering finish.