喝葡萄酒的人對於歷史特別有感，酒標上的原文不僅僅是個發音或是代稱，細究這些詞語的由來常常會比酒本身更精采。比如今天的主角Hospices de Beaune。
Hospices de Beaune伯恩濟貧院成立於1433年，由布根地公爵好人菲利普的大臣Nicolas Rolin與妻子Guigone de Salins創立，原名Hôtel Dieu，最初是為窮人提供的救濟院。原來的醫院建築 Hôtel-Dieu 是十五世紀布根地建築的最佳典範之一，現在已經轉型成為博物館並提供參觀與導覽服務。如今的濟貧醫院已遷址並完全現代化，持續為患者繼續提供服務。
Hospices de Beaune由富有捐助者的葡萄園遺贈資助，經過近六個世紀的累積，葡萄園目前佔地 60 公頃（148 英畝），共五十個地塊，Côte d'Or 的一級園和特級園占比85%。放眼布根地現今各酒莊的規模，這批物業可說是在質與量上都是上乘，加上它悠久獨一的歷史，Hospices de Beaune的葡萄酒近年來備受矚目。
Hospices de Beaune拍賣會的起源是因為醫院沒有業務部門，所以想出了拍賣會形式出售葡萄酒。每年十一月第三個星期日，全球買家都會聚集在 Beaune 參加一年一度的葡萄酒拍賣會上競標一段歷史。拍賣收益用於資助歷史古蹟保護、醫院升級和其他慈善事業。想取得競拍資格的買家，可以透過取得入場券的酒商或是拍賣公司競標 （目前是蘇富比）。買家得標後，尚未完成培養的酒桶將依照買家的指示，運送到買家指定的酒莊進行陳釀與裝瓶。Hospices de Beaune並不負責為買家培養。買家可以是個人，但更多是酒商，酒商會把標到的葡萄酒以桶帶回自己的酒窖存放，等待陳釀完成後再裝瓶。瓶標上除了Hospices de Beaune字樣與醫院紋徽，還會放上負責陳釀培養的酒莊名，在不修改酒標設計的規範下，買家也可在符合布根地法規及Hospices de Beaune核准的範圍內，放上買家希望留念的客製化姓名。
這杯酒除了很有歷史，喝了還可以做好事，而且酒質完全不用擔心，在我的經驗中，不管在布根地當地喝到的、大師班喝到的、還是自己買的，都帶給我一種難以形容的感動。我還記得我在Librairie Athenaeum買了一瓶Hospices de Beaune Volnay 1er Cru Cuvée Général Muteau 1999，與友人喝的很開心，又回去再買一瓶帶回台灣，那是我旅程唯一帶回的葡萄酒。
2015年，Hospices de Beaune 任命 Ludivine Griveau 為其歷史上的第一位女性釀酒師。並負責管理一個由二十多人組成的團隊。自創始人 Guigone de Salins 以來，就沒有一位女性掌管過 Hospices de Beaune，Ludivine Griveau 是第一個。而且 Guigone de Salins 是負責醫療照護，不是釀酒師。從她主理的首發年份一直到本次品飲會的發表，酒質保持一貫，酒風更見洗鍊，不是更多，而是更少更精確，將傳統風格再打磨得更細緻，短短數年，她的成長有目共睹。
Hospices de Beaune 的釀酒師非常辛苦，五十個地塊各自獨立，生長季的照顧到採收的忙碌也是各自處理，釀酒師要有更多的細節調度才能完成這樣高強度的工作，而且還要維持甚至精鍊各個地塊的風格。Ludivine Griveau 說在布根地，釀酒師等於是每年參加一次大賽。因為年份的不同，每次都等於要從頭開始。她也特別提到釀酒師要牢記每個年份的困難部分，才能真正的累積與成長。
Domaine Hospices de Beaune 大師講堂品飲酒單
BEST BUY [2020 Saint-Romain, Cuvée Joseph Menault, Elevé par Albert Bichot]
The delicate aroma of this wine transports me back to the cellars of Burgundy. It offers a refreshing breath of cool cellar air, accompanied by distinct notes of lemon, grapefruit, wet stone, and a subtle hint of lavender that lingers in the background. The mouthwatering acidity beautifully complements the medium-bodied structure, showcasing clean flavors in the traditional Burgundy style. This wine has good sustainability and leaves a lasting impression.
Hospices de Beaune少數不是一級園與特級園的物業，但是畫面感十足，表現非常好，讓我想起2014年。
[2018 Meursault-Porusots 1er Cru, Cuvée Jéhan Humblot, Elevé par Hospices de Beaune]
Powerful flinty in the nose, with evident ripened sweet white fruits like pear and peach emerging, creating a lively and vibrant aroma. The palate is substantial yet maintains a refreshing aftertaste, with hints of almond, quince, and citrus fruits. The acidity is precise and perfectly balanced with the rich mouthfeel, showcasing the mineral character and expansive nature of this magnificent terroir.
產量大卻保有優良品質的特別年份，HdB建立以來第一次有超過800桶進入拍賣
[2015 Beaune 1er Cru, Cuvée Guigone de Salins, Elevé par Hospices de Beaune]
Embodies the traditional Pommard style: ripened black fruits and black olives at the forefront, a hint of tobacco, dry mint, and dry floral notes add complexity to the aroma profile. Backbone is supported by a pleasant fresh and elegant expression, showcasing a variety of red fruits. Well-defined tannins displays a firm character remains juicy and joyful on the palate. This single vineyard wine captures the racy character of the Les Epenots terroir, offering a delightful representation of this renowned site.
[2019 Pommard-Epenots 1er Cru, Cuvée Dom Goblet, Elevé par Albert Bichot]
Embodies the traditional Pommard style: ripened black fruits and black olives at the forefront, a hint of tobacco, dry mint, and dry floral notes add complexity to the aroma profile. Backbone is supported by a pleasant fresh and elegant expression, showcasing a variety of red fruits. Well-defined tannins displays a firm character remains juicy and joyful on the palate. This single vineyard wine captures the racy character of the Les Epenots terroir, offering a delightful representation of this renowned site.
[2020 Corton Grand Cru, Cuvée Docteur Peste, Elevé par Albert Bichot]
Powerful aroma profile currently awaiting further integration yet quite captivating. Balanced combination of elements: tar/gun smoke notes, flinty nuances, delicate rose petals, and an appealing vegetal character with hints of sandalwood. Palate is well-defined and highly enjoyable, showcases a lovely acidity that harmonizes with its charming tannins. Full and soft, with refreshing red fruit flavors and a powdery/dusty texture. An additional six years to achieve optimal harmony.
BEST TODAY [2014 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru, Cuvée Madeleine Collignon, Elevé par Hospices de Beaune]
Delightful combination of sweetness and elegance in its aroma profile. It showcases well-defined red fruit aromas, complemented by notes of dry shiitake, delightful peppery accents, subtle oak nuances, and a touch of sandalwood. Noticing the palate is offering dry red fruit flavors intermingled with spices. Juicy, lovely, and joyful in character. A powdery medium tannin structure provides a solid backbone to the overall taste experience.
This wine embodies the richness and refinement that is characteristic of Mazis-Chambertin. Its full-bodied nature is accompanied by a delicate touch, reflecting the distinct style of this renowned vineyard. Very delicious now.