#聖愛美濃 是 #波爾多 葡萄酒的傳統生產據點，也是一個因為基督信仰產生的聚落，1999年被列入 #聯合國 #世界遺產。2022的聖愛美濃分級波折不斷：#Ausone, #Cheval Blanc, #Angélus 三家特等A級酒莊都退出了分級，連帶影響今後的產區發展。
十年前我就用過Le Dôme辦理課程，當時純粹因為其酒質出眾沒有去好好深入探究。以分級而言這款酒只能掛Saint-Émilion AC：參加聖愛美濃特級Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé分級的酒款有類似Mis En Bouteille Au Château的法規要求，Le Dôme的新酒莊是2021才蓋好的，之前都是在集團下的Château Teyssier釀造，所以不符合聖愛美濃特級的法規要求。按理來說酒莊蓋好了就可以參加下一次的聖愛美濃特級評選，但是去年莊主Jonathan Maltus OBE的釀造標竿Cheval Blanc退出分級，所以莊主宣告Le Dôme日後也不會參加Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé評級。
Le Dôme的新酒廠建築非常現代，Dôme是「圓頂」的意思，所以新酒廠設計成「飛碟」的外型，座落在Vignonet的Château Angélus旁，像是外星人降落在在這個古老的產區，透過北面的樹木可以看到 Angélus的鐘樓。Le Dôme在酒評於聖愛美濃產區歷年平均分數上排名第三，僅次於Ausone與Cheval Blanc，是聖愛美濃「車庫酒」的巔峰，不能掛特級卻有特等A級的品質，也完全是個「異類」般的存在。經商有成的Jonathan Maltus OBE在1994年入主百廢待舉的Château Teyssier，自此成為這個法國鄉下小村的推手，但當時的法國勢利眼人們不怎麼待見他，「一個滿手現金的英國人買這裡的葡萄園釀酒？蛤？」。現在屬於英國人的波爾多酒莊已經不多了，也難怪九十年代的波爾多人會有這種反應。
Château Teyssier不是個小角色，最早的生產紀錄上溯1714年，在19 世紀 Château Teyssier是右岸地區最大的葡萄酒生產者。1994年Jonathan Maltus購入時葡萄園為5.5公頃，靠近Dordogne河邊，風土並不出色，所以Jonathan Maltus在聖愛美濃的坡地購買新的葡萄園，很快的擴增到十倍大，Le Dôme的葡萄園也是此階段購買的。自1997首發年份以來到2021年，Le Dôme僅擁有名字而無自有的酒窖或城堡，Robert Parker給Le Dôme 2010評出滿分，算是真正的成名時刻。當時被認為是「Garagiste車庫人」的Jonathan Maltus終於也被稱作「風土人Terroir-ist」。Jonathan Maltus曾說「我一生的大部分時間都在這裡—我的骨灰也將撒在這裡。」但與此同時他也說「這裡功能失調，晚上小鎮本身完全死氣沉沉。」他還嚴厲批評波爾多機構，拒絕與Place （波爾多中央經紀系統）有任何關係，而是通過位於Teyssier的全職銷售團隊銷售他所有的葡萄酒。本來就是個麻瓜局外人，又和「傳統」直接對著幹，還在許多古堡之間蓋了個大飛碟，Jonathan Maltus特立獨行可謂從一而終。
Jonathan Maltus在聖愛美濃的品牌還包括La Forge、Vieux Château Mazerat、La Carré與Les Astéries，入門品牌Pezat。相關品飲紀錄如下。
感謝 #亞舍 邀請
2021 Pezat Blanc (Bordeaux Superieur)
2021 Pezat Rosé, Côtes de Provence AC
2018 Pezat Red (Bordeaux Superieur)
2021 Le Reve Rosé, Côtes de Provence AC
這四支初階款其實都不錯，其中的白酒相當討喜。15%的Muscadelle較少見。
2021 Pezat Blanc - A delicate bouquet of white florals and lively fruit, with the Sauvignon Blanc grape variety taking center stage. The soft and round texture with ripe pear, peach, and white grapes flavors. Notable body providing a satisfying weight and richness that stands out against its bright acidity. Enjoyable.
2012 Ch.Teyssier (Saint-Émilion GC): 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc. Exhibits a bouquet that combines the delicate aroma of rose petals with the more tertiary notes of leather and animal fur. Ripe plum provides a subtle sweetness that complements the other aromas. The clean and refreshing palate, with a mouth-watering quality, is nicely balanced by polished tannins. Not an overly strong wine, it is clear and well-defined, with some tertiary notes adding complexity and depth.
2012 Ch. Laforge (Saint-Émilion GC): 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc. Exhibits a complex bouquet of forest floor, dry shitake, and meaty aromas, with a touch of masculine notes like Cologne. A bit of plum puree can also be detected. The concentrated palate reveals layers of black fruit flavors, along with some animal notes. The finish is characterized by floral and tobacco notes that linger pleasantly. Despite its age, the wine remains vivid and promising for further aging.
2012 Le Carré (Saint-Émilion GC): 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. Concentrated bouquet of sticky sweet spice liquor aromas, followed by notes of tar and jammy black fruit, which are balanced and not overwhelming. The palate reveals a complex array of flavors, including earthy smoke, animal notes, black chocolate, cinnamon, and a touch of red pepper and black plum. The wine is well-defined and completed, exhibiting a satisfying balance and depth.
2012 Les Astéries (Saint-Émilion GC): Astéries是海星的意思，園區土壤有許多海星化石而得名。葡萄種植於1920年代，全為原根種！整個波爾多也只有這裡有了。
80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. Impressively structured wine, packed with tannins that are balanced by its weight and promising layers of black fruits as it develops. The wine is well-integrated, exhibiting all of the typical aromas of the region. It is complex and harmonious, with a strong sense of minerality, featuring dark berries and stone. The palate reveals notes of blackberries, fennel, and cocoa powder. It has an austere style, and it will be interesting to see how it develops over time.
2012 Vieux Ch. Mazerat (Saint-Émilion GC): 酒標很像Le Dôme，有時被稱為"Black Dôme"
65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Franc. A grandiose wine with impressive dark tannins and swathes of black plum fruits. The bouquet is lovely: black sesame, licorice, and dark chocolate. A meaty nose with some succulence and real polish. The finish is dry and fresh with a touch of vegetation. Well-completed and enjoyable wine.
2012 Le Dôme (Saint-Émilion): 80% Cabernet Franc甚至高於Cheval Blanc或Ausone，Jonathan Maltus的目標直指這兩家名莊，特別是Cheval Blanc。
This wine is deep in color, offering plenty of raspberry and blueberry fruit with hints of dry herbs, flowers, and sweet spices. The nose shows some real development. The wine is oily and medium-bodied on the palate, with stunning elegance, purity, and minerality. However, the acidity is quite high and leads to a pretty drying finish. Overall, it presents the quality of the fruit and improved complex nuances, and overall equilibrium makes for a very special Bordeaux, which is dominated by Cabernet Franc.