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Vietti品飲會 - Barbera的新世紀

2019年3月31日

市場總是迷戀到底那裡好喝永遠說不清楚的Barolo或是Babaresco,有機會喝到這些酒當然很開心,不過想要享受Piemonte的酒選擇很多,Barbera是其中最「安全」的選擇。

作為Piemonte產量最大的釀酒紅葡萄品種(約佔Piemonte葡萄酒產量的50%),Barbera多半的產品是被日常飲用的。Barbera起源非常古老,但第一個正式紀錄出現在一個保存在Nizza Monferrato市的17世紀文件中。Torino農業學會副主任Nuvolose伯爵在1798年編撰的Piemonte釀酒葡萄文件中介紹Barbera「富含精緻的香氣,並帶有精緻與力量相結合的味道」。Barbera,或者說根據Piemonte傳統的Barbera,適合開懷暢飲,是義大利最著名和最受歡迎的葡萄酒之一。

Barbera d'Asti DOC於1970年成立,2008年提升為Barbera d'Asti DOCG,包括:
Barbera d'Asti DOCG - 陳年至少四個月,可以加註葡萄園名,如本次Vietti的品飲活動中我個人最喜愛的一款酒Barbera d'Asti ”La Crena“ 2015
Barbera d'Asti Superiore DOCG - 陳年至少十四個月,包括至少六個月桶中醇化

Barbera d'Asti Superiore DOCG可以再分出三個次產區:
1. Nizza DOCG (Barbera d'Asti Superiore Nizza DOCG),這個產區被認為是Barberai最好的產區,種植區域在海拔150到400米之間的丘陵,具有最佳的日照與氣候條件,葡萄酒富含萃取物和香氣,酒體強壯,可以長期陳年發展,價格並不低,標示常常直接是Nizza DOCG。
2. Barbera d'Asti Superiore Tinella DOCG
3. Barbera d'Asti Superiore Astiano DOCG
另外Barbera還有一些DOC與DOCG,包括:
Barbera del Monferrato DOC
Barbera del Monferrato Superiore DOCG

Monferrato地區幅員包括Asti與Alba二個出名的城市,也包括上述的Nizza Monferrato市,應該可說是Piemonte最重要的區域。
Barbera d'Alba DOC - 市面上最容易入手的Barbera,多半是輕柔易飲富於果香的風格。

感謝泰德利邀請

1. Vietti Arneis 2016
bright pale lemon. M intensity: Mineral and lime and blossom, some honey aroma is hitting the road. M+ acidity, M body, M+ Intensity, 13%, M finish. Ripen fruit aroundness, Vivid acidity back up the structure, Mineral in length. Very floral and crisp. Neat and fresh.

2. Vietti Scarrone Vigna Vecchia 2015 Barbera d'Alba
Subtle, floral, inky, ripe black cherry, spices. A little hint of herbs and some toasty. Structured but not overwhelmed, Lovely, richly fruity and very tannic with noticeable acidity. Multi-flavors show the complexity: Primary lead still but back up with oak and tertiary. Powerful body but smoothy on the palate. M+ finish, Juicy in length.

3. Vietti La Crena 2015 Barbera d'Asti
Spicy and floral, terroir structure, Aggressive in the nose. High ripen tannin and high juicy acidity, oak gives the body strength. Surprisingly fresh with all this richness and 15% alcohol, which you do feel just a little on the finish. Chewy and dark with black olives on the palate and a touch of leather. Generous, deep and long. Seriously concentrated Barbera. Just coming into its own now.

4. Vietti Perbacco Nebbiolo 2015 Langhe
Typical bright garnet of Nebbiolo. Spicy (curry?), peppers and some herbs. Red fruit and some violet. Pencil, alcohol. High tannic and high acidity, solid M body and high alcohol. Good in concentration. Gentle earthy/mineral quality to add complexity.

5. Vietti Castiglione 2015 Barolo
Surprisingly almond aroma in the nose! Earthy and dry herbs. Gentle fresh red fruits back up the first nose. Some honey but not luscious. Subtle on the palate: black tea, black cherry, rose petal, powerful tannin, and solid acidity. Vivid on the tongue and black pepper in length. Succulent palate with a powerful tannic structure. Really long and a little vibrant, firm, long red-fruit finish.

6. Vietti Lazzarito 2013 Barolo
Dry dying rose and earthy, leather and black pepper, candle smoke. High tannin and acidity, but well-shaped in the body. The beautifully compact structure of acidity and tannins, clay-like compactness but also a freshness that gives the impression there were some stems in the ferment. It becomes much more silky and charming, bringing out cherry fruit and sweet tobacco flavors.