西澳Margret River產區共5,725 ha，僅占全澳葡萄酒產區的3.4%，卻贏得30%的澳洲葡萄酒獎項，可說是量小質精的產區。台灣市場中西澳Margret River的產品不多，均物有所值。這個產區常以波爾多型態的紅葡萄酒聞名，但今日的白酒更顯出色。
Filius Sauvignon Blanc & Sémillon 2023 很有特色且清爽。Vasse Felix自1980年代末就有這款混釀，之前只在澳洲和英國有售。Margret River產區以波爾多混釀為主，故有這款Sauvignon Blanc & Sémillon的混釀。但以價格而言，實在太物超所值。
Vasse Felix也是澳洲Chardonnay的標竿廠商，今天的兩款Premieur Chardonnay都很讓人思考：Chardonnay 2019有明顯的還原味（硫味與火柴味），Heytesbury Chardonnay 2022卻是優雅明確的果味結合耐嚼的質地與尾韻，很難想像這出於同一位釀酒師之手。還原性香氣在近二十年的高階Chardonnay釀造一直是個有爭議的話題。這種味道很容易被認為是過度添加二氧化硫（但有研究表明，硫殘留物作為葡萄酒中硫化物及味道來源的作用被誇大），或是某種礦物甚至是新桶陳釀風格，而事實上這是可操縱的釀酒師手法，比如控制發酵時的果汁濁度(nephelometric turbidity units, NTU)。過度澄清會去除酵母發酵所需的營養物（最重要的是氮nitrogen，釀酒實務稱為YAN)，酵母缺乏營養更可能產生難聞的硫化氫，而非香氣型的揮發性硫化物VSC，VSC有助於產生堅實的香氣和風味。Virginia Willcock釀造Heytesbury Chardonnay時慣以500-600NTU釀造，風格走向如前所述，不過發酵風險也更高。但Chardonnay 2019的硫味與火柴味也並非只有我感覺，也同時出現在Julia Harding MW的筆記中，所以發酵前濁度的控制就可以改變最終的還原風格（非僅此一個原因），釀酒與品酒真就像饗客與大廚的內力互拼。
最後，還原味就是葡萄酒眾多風味的其中一類，還原味也不僅濁度一個因素，但且不論其來源，風味的「均衡」永遠比某個單一因素更重要。
1. Classic White 2023
Cool and clean, like a morning meadow's breath. Petrichor hints, with orange and grapefruit juice aromas and palate. Clear yet stable acidity maintains texture. Approachable but not sustainable.
2. Classic Red 2023 (Shiraz 100%)
Toastiness, ripe black fruits, and violet meld together. Classic Aussie Shiraz character on the nose. Clean and approachable, not overly bold, with juicy black cherry dominating and a hint of black pepper.
3. Filius Chardonnay 2023
Shy but clear on the first nose: white fruit forward. Buttery with a hint of toastiness lifting the palate. Notable steely acidity without austerity. Evident fruit presence, showing some structure.
4. Filius Sauvignon Blanc & Sémillon 2023 本日最有趣
Decent, gentle nose of juicy pear and green apple. Well-proportioned blend, vivid acidity balanced with a round/waxy texture. Clean, long finish, with fruit dominance over grassiness. Racy wine delivers a refreshing, invigorating tingling sensation. Not a Bordeaux blanc style, yet showcases its own character.
5. Filius Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
Mid ruby hue. Typical capsicum nose defines the core grape variety, though the palate lacks the depth suggested by the aroma. Smooth texture throughout but not particularly complex or long-lasting.
6. Chardonnay 2019 本日最驚喜
Stunningly smoky and sulphidic. Smoky with a touch of struck match, in a pleasing way. Solid and bold yet lean on the palate, with high crisp acidity and lime zest, lemon curd, and ginger biscuit. Clean with moderate fruity concentration on the mid-palate, offering impressive length and potential for improvement. Reminiscent of a baby Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes (Coche-Dury?)
7. Cabernet Sauvignon 2020
Deep crimson color. Slightly leafy with wet-stone mineral aromas, enhancing the freshness impression created by pure dark fruit. The scent is dark and fresh, with well-defined fruit character. Not solely about the fruit, there's a light dusty/smoky nuance. On the palate, hints of green flavors add complexity but remain somewhat unintegrated. Still developing, with a sense of incompleteness at this stage.
8. Heytesbury Chardonnay 2022
Like a handful of ripe citrus fruits on the nose, followed by sophisticated cologne aromas, delivering gentle luxury. Chewy texture from lee-contact and new oak, seamlessly integrated. Full of character and confidence, gradually building on the palate with oak and fruit gripping tightly, finishing with finesse and balance.
9. Tom Cullity Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec 2020
High alcohol detectable on the nose. Aromas of fresh violet and ripe blackberries, with notes of toastiness, smokiness, black pepper, and a meaty undertone. Reflects excellent canopy management and fruit quality. A pleasant bitterness adds richness and a sturdy, subtle mouthfeel that persists to the end. Tannins are compact, firm, and wonderfully smooth, contributing to the wine's impressive length.
以下大家加減看
濁度NTU值與還原味有間接關聯。過低的濁度可能增強還原味，而適度的濁度有助於降低這一風險。
1. 懸浮固體的影響：白葡萄酒中的懸浮固體（濁度的主要來源）含有脂質和其他酵母營養，這些成分對發酵過程很關鍵。如果葡萄汁的濁度過低，這意味著懸浮固體較少，可能導致酵母缺乏必要的脂質供應。這種情況下的發酵過程中會產生較高的硫化物，導致還原味的出現，如硫磺、火柴煙、白煮蛋味道。
2. 發酵條件：在發酵過程中，過低NTU值通常代表營養不足、酵母代謝受到抑制而導致發酵遲滯，也增加還原味的產生。
3. 風味管理：適度的濁度有助於提供酵母所需的氧氣和營養，減少還原味。因此在白葡萄酒的製造中，保持適當NTU值有助於確保發酵的順利進行，並避免過度的還原味。
4. 一般建議白葡萄酒的NTU值在50到150NTU之間。NTU值超過150就可能導致發酵過程中出現其他問題，如發酵過快或過慢甚至發酵停滯。500-600NTU的釀造真是藝高人膽大。