這應該是我這幾年在台灣聽過含金量最高的一場大師講堂。大師講堂常常在深挖某些事實，使聽者可以對產區或是酒款有更多的體會，本場雖然由單一產區California Wine Institute #CWI 主辦，內容卻是廣域而引人深思的，特別是對於進階飲者而言，至少我得到一些「提醒」：是怎樣的感覺使我可以分別一款酒是"Good"或是"Great"？此大哉問也。
講者Karen MacNeil，WIne Bible的作者，各位可以自己去查其人其事。她應該沒有某些商業講者的包袱（應該吧），無論如何。她帶來的觀點是非常直觀卻又非常容易被忽略的，猶如當頭棒喝。飲者本就應將所有葡萄酒的評估項目真正的「內化」成個人的體會。
「偉大的葡萄酒」的六大核心元素
1. #Distinctiveness 獨特性
偉大的葡萄酒必須具備獨特性，無法與其他酒混淆。但什麼是「獨特」？這需要對葡萄酒整體識的累積深度才能稍稍窺見廟堂之美。
2. #Precision 精準度
精準的葡萄酒像是調整好的收音機訊號，毫無雜音而有清晰感，Karen以教堂的鐘聲舉例。很多葡萄酒風味繁多卻不見得「清晰」，好比1024*768與4K解析度的差別。
3. #Balance 平衡
平衡意味著對立的元素以適當張力協調共存，如酸度與果味的平衡。對立元素我有自己的解釋，至少是有兩個元素才能談「平衡」，單一的fact不能自說自是平衡。
4. #Aliveness 生命力
偉大的葡萄酒像是「內在發光」，帶有活力和動態感，讓人感覺酒液本身在與品飲者互動。無趣的酒像是一條直線，偉大的葡萄酒的風味卻是隨時間波動的，在每個波峰都有不同又清晰的表達，可以玩味一整天甚至更久（通常等不及早就喝完）。她引用中式茶在沸水中舒展的「茶葉的痛苦」（the agony of the leaves），比喻葡萄酒如何在口中展開多層次風味，感受酒的「編舞」與流動感。
5. Beyond Fruit 超越果味
優秀的葡萄酒不只是展現單一果味，而是擁有複雜的次要風味，如咖啡、皮革、礦物等，使人感受到「暗黑面」（我不確定我翻的對不對，應該是相對於明亮果味的另一重感覺）的吸引力。
6. #Connectedness 與產地的連結
偉大的葡萄酒必須反映出其產地的風土，帶來地區文化的感受，且能喚起人們的回憶與情緒。而且雖說風味是中性的敘述，但在不同產區卻可以是正向或負向陳述。
進階的葡萄酒欣賞者應跳脫傳統的品飲框架（框架沒有不好，但不應停留在此），用更深刻的感官與個人經驗來體驗葡萄酒。MacNeil 引用一位哈佛大學神經科學專家的話：「我們並非思考的生物，而是有感情的生物在思考。」偉大的葡萄酒不僅能引動人的理性分析，更能觸動情感深處，這是品酒的最重要價值之一。
這場講座MacNeil沒有用什麼華麗的投影片，亮點全在她說的內容中。本場選酒也很精采傑出，每款酒都對應演講的某個重點，喝來更加有感。
1. MERRY EDWARDS, Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2022
Ripe white fruits upfront, accompanied by classic Sauvignon Blanc notes. A mouth-filling palate with generous fruit flavors, complemented by a subtle hint of "cat pee" lingering in the length. Well-concentrated overall, this wine is a solid representation of the region’s character, showcasing the balance of sunny days and cool nights typical of Russian River terroir.
2. MASSICAN, California Sauvignon Blanc 2023
Aromas of citrus peels, wet stone, and fresh herbs. High acidity with a sharp, crisp edge. Pure and refreshing, with a touch of saltiness and a linear structure. The palate delivers a distinct sharpness, almost stainless-steel-like, accompanied by a pleasant grapefruit bitterness. Despite these vibrant elements, the typical Sauvignon Blanc character remains intact, offering balance and familiarity.
3. HIRSCH VINEYARDS, Estate Chardonnay 2022 (West Sonoma Coast)
Pale gold. Generously perfumed, exotic, and rich, offering distinct orange juice and cedar aromas, with hints of pastry. Vibrant energy and freshness throughout. Mid-plus acidity balances the round, plush palate. Decent and luxurious.
4. CROIX ESTATE, Floodgate Pinot Noir 2022
Mid ruby. Delicate herbaceous notes upfront, with refreshing red berries and a hint of cedar—showcasing a well-executed New World Pinot Noir aromatic profile. Sweetness emerges immediately on the palate, supported by vivid acidity and fine-grained tannins that hold the mid-palate steady. Refreshing throughout, with clear evidence of well-managed viticulture and vinification. Warm yet refreshing red fruits linger gracefully on the finish.
5. CROCKER&STARR WINERY, Estate Cabernet Franc 2022
Dark ruby. A delightful blend of herbaceous notes and red berries, followed by chocolate, wax, dust, and florals. Complex yet clean in expression. Savory and dark throughout, with touches of salinity and a hint of blood, adding distinctive character. Joyful and approachable.
6. RIDGE VINEYARDS, East Bench Zinfandel 2022
Initially shy on the nose, gradually unfolds ripe red plum and red apple, supported by subtle sweet spices, all while maintaining a steady purity. Black fruits and darker tones appear on the palate, keeping the wine vibrant and refreshing. Far from being "tired or sluggish," each layer offers clean, well-defined flavors. While not entirely traditional, this polished Zinfandel delivers a refined, balanced expression with freshness at its core.
7. DUMOL, Wild Mountainside Syrah 2022
Deep ruby. Floral aromas upfront accompanied by dark fruits and a touch of herbaceous notes, offering pure, juicy scents. High but finely-grained tannins balance seamlessly with a sweet blackberry core. Bold yet refined texture, with lingering floral tones in the retronasal perception. Hints of chocolate and caramel emerge, leading to an elegant, floral-infused finish.
8. REALM CELLARS, Moonracer Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
Deep purple. Subtle yet complex, seamlessly blending luxurious aromas: layers of black fruits, dark florals, mushrooms, aged cheese, incense, delicate toast, and dry tobacco. Full-bodied, generous, and powerful, yet brimming with intricate details—floral notes, fresh dark fruits, spices, and forest breath add depth. Bold in texture, showing distinction and sophistication with a luxurious, refined expression.
9. FREEMARK ABBEY, Sycamore Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
Deep ruby. Delicate tertiary aromas emerge: dried dark plum, wet leaves, pickles, and dry rose. Abundant flavors, seamlessly integrated, with fresh fruit notes still vibrant, enhanced by the quality of well-managed aging. Vivid and charming, like a lighthearted humor comedy. Displays harmony and integration with impressive development, promising another 10+ years of enjoyment.