Clos du Val成立至今已逾五十年,同屬「加州1972年班」的著名加州酒莊 (https://www.winetutorpatrick.com/blog/1972)。五十年來加州酒的品質飛躍眾所週知,但商業上的變化卻也暗示了某些隱憂:許多的酒莊售出給更大的資本集團,能維持原釀酒團隊的只有部份,資本集團可能更著重於市場易於接受的風格。而Clos du Val至今仍是家族經營,真的難能可貴。
Bernard Portet的父親在70年代初擔任ChâteauLafite-Rothschild的技術總監,而John Goelet當時想在波爾多購買一座酒莊,但沒有成功。兩人的收購失敗後,John Goelet要求Bernard Portet找一個「釀造最高品質的葡萄酒」之所在。之後Portet在加州想找到一個可以類同波爾多產區的地點,當時波爾多的酒精度落在11.5-12.5%,而Napa產區是13.5%。為了要盡量接近John Goelet的期待,當Bernard Portet經過Silverado Trail時,他意識到這裡有涼爽的夜晚,可以維持葡萄的新鮮度與酸度,最終Clos du Val於Stegs Leap落地(當時Stegs Leap還不是AVA)。你不妨說Clos du Val的初心就是「另一個」波爾多(左岸)。
Bernard Portet已經80歲,但還繼續在Clos du Val擔任顧問,現任莊主是John Goelet的孫子Olav Goelet,釀酒師為Carmel Greenberg,她是加州年輕一代釀酒師的代表,曾在Dominus工作。
為了回歸初心,酒廠目前只留下四款產品,這並非一個輕易的決定,比如說停產他們最出名的Hirondelle Vineyard燕子園與Three Graces美惠三女神;然後揮別Pinot Noir、Chardonnay與Zinfandel( Zinfandel我覺得釀得很好)。市場對於此舉其實正反意見互陳,但Goelet認為Clos du Val的酒風應該比典型的Napa更微妙。更直白的說,就是波爾多左岸的古典風格(千禧年前的風格)。
引述Olav Goelet的話「從Clos du Val過去五十年的歷史來看,我認為我們走的岔路就是追隨消費者偏好。但我們應當引領消費者喜好而非追逐,因此我們必須成為有中心思想的酒莊,有自己精神的Clos du Val。」
來賓點播梅艷芳「孤身走我路」https://youtu.be/pJhSDisGZRc?si=aHq9LQlqm0OmZfrU
感謝 #星坊酒業 邀請
1. Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (Master medal atthe Global Sauvignon Blanc Masters 2023, 2022 vintage) 本日最驚喜
Pale lemon. Mid-intensity nose: ripe pear,capsicum, leafy notes, zest, and blossom. Ample acidity supporting the rounded texture, not as sharp or austere as a typical NZ style. Joyful and approachable, showcasing well-controlled viticulture and vinification. A solid example of a Bordeaux blend.
2. Red Blend 2021
Mid crimson. Warm, ripe red cherry, hintsof leafy notes, with a subtle touch of oak influence. Mid acidity, mid-plus tannins, slight attack on the cheeks, red juicy fruits persist throughout, though a touch rustic on he front palate.
3. Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 Napa Valley, 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 5%Malbec, 1% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot.
Deep ruby. Classic old-school Bordeauxnose: cedar-driven, fresh blackberries, plums, dry mint, and ground spices, with a hint of tar adding complexity. Elegant expression of acidity and tannins, full-bodied texture. Caramel and coffee notes linger on the finish. Well-defined in style and character. Not overly intense, yet not simple either. Rather appetising!
4. Merlot Eureka 2023 原酒
Deep purple. Cool mint, fresh blueberries,chocolate, and sandalwood on the nose. Chewy tannins, aromatic and expressive on the palate. Full-bodied in the mid-palate but lacks persistence on the finish.
5. Melbec Cypress 2023 原酒
Deep purple. Plumeria, leather, toast,black cherry, ground spices, and vanilla. Sweet notes like ice cream soda. Bold yet smooth tannins, with black fruits dominating the profile. Warm and inviting finish.
6. Carbernet Sauvignon Pasture 2023 原酒
Deep purple. Fresh herbal notes upfront,followed by leather, toast, cedar, pencil, and a chalky nuance. Youthful on the palate: high fine-grain tannins, concentrated black fruits, well-defined California Cabernet Sauvignon.
7. Yettalil 2021 Stags Leap District 本日最好喝 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc,10% Malbec, 7% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot.
Deep purple. Blackberry, lavender, andgraphite aromas with a touch of alcoholic warmth. Fine, sandy tannins balanced by refreshing acidity. Ripe black plum, chocolate, and well-defined structure. Lingering sandalwood notes on the finish.