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布根地最大獨占園擁有者 波瑪城堡Château de Pommard

2024年10月16日

2014年,美國富商Michael Baum力退LVMH集團及瑞士保險公司,收購波瑪城堡。這讓當地酒農挺不舒服的,幾乎就像是傳家寶賣給了外星人一樣。但Baum投入大量資金提升葡萄酒品質,採用Biodynamic Agriculture,自2017年起將自有的園地細分七個獨占園並個別裝瓶(過去酒莊只有二款產品)。新的做法的成果就是今天波瑪城堡的全新系列。

波瑪城堡由法國國王路易十五的財務大臣Vivant Micault於1726年創立。1763年由Marey Family接手,並在1812年開創了酒莊的獨占園Clos Marey-Monge。Marey Family曾也掌控了Romanée Saint-Vivant及Clos de Tart,其影響力可見一斑。Clos Marey-Monge 是波瑪城堡的自有葡萄園,被石牆圍起成Clos。本獨占園總面積約 20 公頃,現在分為七個不同土壤類型的獨立種植區,也是今天品飲的七個重點品項,這是非常難得的品試。

但很容易誤會的是波瑪城堡的獨占園Clos Marey-Monge並非「一級園」,這是因為前一手經營者在位時也是二十世紀上半INAO畫分布根地園地分級的期間,他不了解INAO的用意,也大概覺得什麼分級都無損這裡的出眾酒質,就沒有去爭取成為更高的分級,幾十年後想從村級昇為一級園是個幾乎不可能的任務,但波瑪城堡的確有在努力爭取。

在2014年的此時我正好就在這裡,布根地不是個城堡產區,所以這裡的城堡就顯得更加特別。那天的陽光很舒服,葡萄已經採收,城堡安靜的矗立,沒有先約也就只能看著建築物與葡萄園思索,然後回去Beaune找個地方喝了很多,也包括了Château de Pommard,從此我的Pommard體會有了骨幹與顏色。

Paul Negrerie三年前接任總釀酒師,也是今天品飲的leader,問及他如何看待傳統的Pommard風格,他說也許大家都認為Pommard有相對強烈的萃取與更rusty的風味,但他認為這都是風土的一部份,ClosMarey-Monge也有部份園地的黏土質地是較細膩的,當然就使得酒質偏深重,但他不認為這是固定的,固然作為一位傳統地塊的釀酒師一定有其框架,但這不是限制。他以Clos Marey-Monge, 75 Rangs, 2018為例,說明Pommard一樣可以有女性而多新鮮花果的風格,且結構達成平衡,也許不是習見的Pommard,卻是另一種值得經營的表達。

感謝 #酩洋酒業 邀請

1. Ch de Pommard, Clos Marey-Monge Micault2018 Pommard Mid-garnet.
Classic Pommard character with fresh red berries leading the nose, accompanied by subtle hints of orange peel and black tea. Immediate and inviting with aromatic lift and openness. Fine-grained tannins, lively acidity, and juicy cherry fruit fill the palate, balanced by a touch of pleasant bitterness. Warm, structured, and refined with a long, elegant finish—showcasing a distinctly masculine edge through its firm grip and bold presence.

2. Ch de Pommard, Clos Marey-Monge GrandsEsprits 2019 Pommard
Mid-garnet. Rich with steely and bloody notes at the core, reflecting a philosophy rooted in earthiness. Ripe strawberry and a hint of farmyard follow, with warm, ground spices adding complexity. Powerful on the palate, solid with mineral flavors. The tannins are notable yet smooth in texture—chewy, robust, and refined. Fuller in the mouth and offering greater length, though less approachable at present. Sturdy yet polished, showing balance now, but more time will allow further development and refinement.

3. Ch de Pommard, Clos Marey-Monge 75 Rangs2018 Pommard
Really gorgeous ripe red fruit—joyful, inviting, and bursting with immediate complexity on the nose. Super-eloquent, charming, and beautifully perfumed. A mouthful in the most delightful way. Simply brilliant.

4. Ch de Pommard, Clos Marey-MongeNicolas-Joseph 2018 Pommard
Mid-ruby, slightly darker than the 75 Rangs. Perfumed and aromatic, with a touch of masculinity and tar smoke enriching the terroir expression. Red berries leap out with vibrancy. Dark-red fruit and a hint of stone dust add depth, though the fruit intensity is more restrained on the palate. Chalky tannins, thicker in texture, with a slight aggressiveness that suggests youth. This wine definitely needs time to evolve, as expected. It embodies a more stereotypical Pommard character—structured, firm, and unapologetically bold.

5. Ch de Pommard, Clos Marey-MongeChanterie 2018 Pommard
Mid-ruby. Coarse spices, ripe persimmon, flinty smoke, rose, fresh strawberry, and a touch of cream mouthful (by oak?). Herbal nuances with tomato leaf intertwine with berries throughout the palate. Fine-grained yet prominent tannins give this Pinot a serious, warm demeanor, suggesting it needs more time
to fully develop. However, the acidity feels slightly lacking, leaving the texture without the lift it could benefit from.

6. Ch de Pommard, Clos Marey-Monge Monopole2022 Pommard
Mid-ruby. Lively and aromatic with an initial burst of sour cherry and wild strawberry. Red fruits dominate without sweetness, accompanied by subtle spice and a fresh lift from the crop itself. Wild red fruit notes feel refined yet persistent. Approachable in its youth for those seeking vibrant fruit expression, but undoubtedly built for longevity, promising further evolution with time.

7. Ch de Pommard, Clos Marey-Monge Monopole2015 Pommard
Mid-ruby with a tawny rim. Gunpowder smoke, dry mint, sour cherry, Earl Grey tea, and dry thyme with a hint of earthiness. A subtle salinity adds impact, while steely acidity edges the palate. Concentrated and complete, with refined notes of candle smoke. This wine shows excellent potential for longevity and development over time.

8. Ch de Pommard, Simone 2014 Pommard 本日最喜歡
Mid-ruby with a tawny rim. At its peak, showcasing a classic Bourgogne Red style. A hint of match smoke and bright, expressive fruit dominate the nose. Very fruity indeed, with fine-grained tannins on the finish: fruitier, sweeter, and more approachable than typical for the region. A harmonious integration of all developmental stages: complete, solid, with vibrant fruit and floral notes. Full on the palate with a long, polished finish. A refined expression of Pommard.