布根地的Négociant常常被翻譯成酒商，用威士忌的術語Independent Bottling, IB來類比比較容易傳達。Négociant最早是收購產區的葡萄、葡萄汁或葡萄酒爾後進行陳釀並以自家名稱出售的商戶，這在葡萄酒歷史上不是新鮮事，是一種程序分工的專業化，也是順應市場的方法，也並不只有在布根地產區，不過布根地Négociant的故事應該是最為人熟知的。
布根地的著名Négociant包括Bichot、Boisset、Chanson、Drouhin、Faiveley和Jadot。在過去的年代這些Négociant善盡他們收購葡萄後釀造的職責，Négociant的傳統「使命」是以許多不完美的部分製作出完美平衡的葡萄酒。於今眾多Négociant都在擴張自有的葡萄園，使莊園酒成為產品主力，建立自己的品質高度。
布根地最古老的Négociant傳統上集中在Beaune，今天品飲的Chanson也是。Chanson創立於1750年，於1999年被香檳巨頭Bollinger收購，2023年又收購了位於Côte Chalonnaise的Château d'Etroyes，葡萄園面積從43公頃增至95公頃。其所擁有的伯恩丘區葡萄園於2024年全部獲得有機認證，新購的葡萄園包括Rully和Mercurey也在轉型有機生產中。雖然Chanson也仍收購葡萄，但現在Chanson的酒絕大多數都來自自有的葡萄園。董事總經理Vincent Avenel於2017年接任，嗣後最顯著的變化是紅酒以整串發酵的百分比從100%降至平均50%，並且實施提早採收。紅酒通常在橡木桶中陳釀19個月，25-30%的新桶，白酒則在橡木桶中陳釀14個月，20%新桶。
這些數字不足以形容味道，今天品嘗的Chanson對我而言，就像是回到布根地見到了在地好朋友，老友健壯如昔，暢談這些年的各個故事，十分痛快。
感謝 #星坊 邀請
2. Bourgogne 2022 (White) （本日最超值）
Blend of Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais fruit.
Pale lemon-gold. Aromas of stone fruit with a touch of struck match and gentle toasted hazelnuts, alongside ripe yellow apple and peach. Crisp and lively on the palate, with mouthwatering acidity, delivering fresh yellow apple and a bit of stone fruit. Moderate length with vibrant freshness throughout.
3. Chablis 2022
Pale lemon. Lifted lime zest and crisp green apple, with a hint of petrichor. Chewy, chalky texture with a touch of saltiness. Green apple, a touch of gun smoke, and flint follow through. Austere and chewy, though a little short for its otherwise structured texture.
4. Le Clos des Mouches 1er Cru, Beaune, 2022 (White)
Of Chanson’s nearly 4.5 ha in Clos des Mouches, a plot of 2 ha on the upper side of the hill is planted with Chardonnay, on sandy soil over limestone.
Pale lemon-gold. Luxurious mid-plus nose: new oak, floral perfume, ripe tangerine, barrel toast, buttery and roasted nut aromas. Distinctly sharp acidity refreshes the round, creamy mouthfeel with roasted apple and marmalade notes. Lively citrus flavors persist throughout the length. Youthful yet well-balanced, with promising integration of its elements.
5. Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2022
Pale ruby-purple. Attractively leafy, with a hint of VA (possibly from wild yeast), fresh woodcut notes, ripe cranberry, sour cherry, and a touch of mayonnaise. Well-defined Bourgogne red profile on the nose but lacks some length: crunchy red raspberry, slight leafy bitterness, with grainy tannins that are still youthful and need 3+ years to soften and integrate. Moderate length but delivers plenty of attractive cool-climate Pinot character.
6. Mercurey 2022
From their new acquisition (2023) of Ch d'Etroyes in the Côte Chalonnaise.
Mid cherry red. Rustic Bourgogne red but decent, gentlemanly, and in good condition. The mid-nose reveals dark floral notes, leather, and ripe dark-red fruits. Firm and chewy, with plenty of fruit. Tannins are perfectly balanced with the fruit. Straightforward and approachable. Drink now through 2027.
7. Les Vergelesses 1er Cru, Pernand-Vergelesses, 2022（本日最驚艷）
Mid crimson. Subtle nose: notes of almond, white blossom, wet leaves, and very ripe dark-red fruit, with both fresh and dried cherries. Tannins are thick but not overly grainy, delivering a rustic yet appealing character. A terroir-driven wine with intense fruit and marked acidity on the finish, but still leans towards a chunky and rustic profile, especially in the aftertaste.
8. Clos des Fèves 1er Cru Monopole, Beaune 2022 (將來更好喝)
Mid crimson. Aromatic and openly fruity, with intense dark-red fruits. Subtle notes of lily and fresh woodcut, with a touch of bloodiness. Fine mid-palate black-tea tannins and bright red fruit acidity support the texture. Completed and balanced with a lovely harmony between the fruit and structure. Long and elegant red cherry acidity in finish.
9. Le Clos des Mouches 1er Cru, Beaune 2022 (現在很好喝)
Mid cherry red. Inviting sweet spicy red fruit upfront, subtly supported by oak, with hints of forest floor and wet leaves, complemented by a touch of fresh almond. Juicy and dense on the palate, showing impressive fruit intensity and finesse in the tannins. Tight and spicy (sweet ginger) with fresh red fruits on the finish. A slight warmth lingers at the end.