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Château de Beaucastel 莊主訪台品飲會

2024年11月9日

今天的都很好喝,選不出#本日最喜歡,那就統統都是本日最喜歡吧。

#FamilePerrin 雖說是根植 #南隆河 的家族經營,但其發展應該說更像控股公司。家族在多個葡萄酒產區發展,例如在#普羅旺斯 的 #Miraval 酒莊、#香檳區白丘 的Fleur de Miraval(在白丘只做#粉紅香檳,非常出人意料)、美國以及#北隆河 產區,還推出烈酒品牌TheGardener及化妝品品牌Beau Domaine。而多元發展並沒有損及家族的葡萄酒事業核心,今天的品飲可資證明。

Châteauneuf du Pape Hommage à JacquesPerrin 首年份為 1989 年,主要產自莊園後面的一塊老藤園,旨在向 1978 年去世的已故Jacques Perrin致敬。前任老莊主 Jacques Perrin 早在70年代,當所有隆河酒莊還普遍用藥之時,即採用#Biodynamic 管理葡萄園,他深信尊重自然風土才能釀造優質酒,老莊主還堅持種植難搞的Mourvedre,所以這款頂級酒的主要葡萄來自60~100年以上的 #Mourvedre #老藤。自 1989 以來得到五次 Wine Advcoate 滿分,且只在優選年份釀製。今天品飲的 2009 則是本酒款於2011年起在波爾多的分銷系統銷售的第一個年份,這款酒也是首個經由#波爾多分銷系統 銷售的隆河「級數酒」。

莊主自己說了,這款酒就是一款#Prototype,僅使用三個品種(當然是挑過的):20% Grenache、10% Counoise和70% Syrah,僅在頂級年份釀造,僅生產350 箱。對比他們的看家本領Châteauneuf-du-Pape,這款酒更富於多元的細節,柔美與剛強並存。這絕非說他們的Châteauneuf-du-Pape 不如Hommage à Jacque,應該說Hommage à Jacque 喝得到更多虔誠的風土之思。

感謝 #酩洋酒業 邀請

1. Fleur de Miraval, ER2 Róse (25% Rosebase 2017, 50% Perpetual Reserve, 25% Remise en cercle 2004 & 2006)
Bright peach-gold, an unexpected rosé hue. Warm, forward notes of yeast accompanied by unharvested red berries, orange peel, and wet stone, all delivering a generous and typical character. Some development is noticeable on the nose—leaning more towards Pinot than Chardonnay in expression. The mousse provides a stable foundation with a chewy yet smooth texture. The finish is bone-dry, persistent, and elegantly luxurious, leaving a lasting impression.

2. Fleur de Miraval, ER3 Róse (25% Rosebase 2018, 50% Perpetual Reserve, 25% Remise en cercle 2009 & 2000)
Bright peach-gold. Lingering bread notes, well-integrated with a cool morning breath character. Ripe white fruits add unexpected texture and intensity, bordering on richness. A touch of Financier-like sweetness beautifully balances high acidity - quite a statement, offering depth and poise.

3. Ch de Beaucastel, Vieilles VignesRoussanne 2022 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Inviting magnolia blossoms upfront, perfumed with layers of curd and refreshing mineral freshness: wet hay and ripe pear, yet remarkably clean. A subtle richness weaves through, with supple textures and an undercurrent of spice, leaving a warm sensation in the throat. Still youthful but brimming with aging
potential. The palate feels generous and powerful, with a creamy texture that adds joy and vibrancy, showcasing playful complexity. Honey glimmers towards the finish, delivering a super-concentrated style with impressive depth.

4. Ch de Beaucastel 2021Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rouge)
Inviting and delicate on the nose: hints of licorice stick, crushed dark cassis, stone dust, ground sweet spices, and strawberry jam. High clarity in varietal expression, clean and precise. Tight and delicate structure with firm tannins, leading to a ripe, savory-tinged finish.

5. Ch de Beaucastel 2016Châteauneuf-du-Pape
30% Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Counoise, and all the other varieties.
Mourvèdre leads the nose with tar and dark, pungent spices, followed by subtle floral notes. Elegant tertiary flavors emerge upfront, accompanied by ripe red strawberry. Delicate yet generous, displaying both elegance and intensity.

6. Ch de Beaucastel, Hommage à JacquesPerrin 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Pure, clear, and intensely meaty notes up front, followed by cassis juice and blackcurrant—a signature of the house style. Developing layers reveal rose petals, thyme, sage, dry mint, and a handful of mixed red berries. Savory minerals and hints of Earl Grey add depth to the aromatic profile, with a crushed blue berries note beneath, leafy and earthy. The palate shows a supple texture with herbal savory tones, vibrant acidity threading through, and refined, restrained, dusty tannins. A polished, long length completes the elegant expression.

7. Ch de Beaucastel, Hommage à JacquesPerrin 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Inviting old-school Rhône style. Elegant tertiary notes are still vivid with layers of spices and red fruits. The palate remains intense and dense, showcasing vibrant red fruits, citrus peels, bouquet garni, allspice, and juniper character. Tannins are plentiful yet refined, softened into a digestible form. Long, lingering finish with chocolate and black fruits. Both are incredibly intense and nuanced, balancing power and finesse.